Friday, November 29, 2013

The Mission: Turn Burda 7863 into J Crew Toothpick jeans

My first attempt at turning this pattern into a pair of skinny jeans is in the works. I bought the fabric at emmaonesocks.com. Really my favorite fabric store. Not cheap but well worth it. They have stretch denim in all the colors I would want. The first pair is a faded blue slub, which looks EXACTLY like the fabric in my J Crew jeans ($130). So those are going to be the pair for me to copy.



They say to choose the size in your measurement which is really hard to do. A 14 really??? In the stores, I wear about a 6, American women usually do not care for double digits. Oh well, I'm not the skinny girl I used to be. 

My thoughts on the sizing is that the 14 fits me like a regular pair of jeans, not what I want. I am resizing the pattern as I go for the next pair, which is going to be the color, coffee.  So far I have taken 2 inches out of the crotch length, it might need to be 3 inches. Otherwise, they just might look like 'mom jeans' and no one should want to wear mom jeans if you don't have to.

The length is at least 2 inches too long. The upper thigh is somewhat tight but needs to be tighter. I need to at least go down to a size 12, maybe a size 10. The entire leg needs to be taken in, as much as 1.5 inches at the ankle. 

The pattern has you make the pocket with denim fabric, but I never have owned a pair of jeans with denim fabric pockets so that had to go. I used muslim that I have a bolt of. I sewed the pockets on the inside like the ones I wear, stitched twice. First seam is about a 1/4 seam with wrong sides together, then turned
and with right sides together, another 1/4 seam to enclose the previous seam. viola.

I have made these jeans using my BabyLock Evolution about 90% of the time. I have used several stitches  used in jean construction. The Cover Stitch is used all over the place and also the 3-Thread Overlock- Narrow. I used heavy weight thread. Mettler calls it Extra Strong. I think Guterman calls it heavy weight or jeans thread. I used either of these throughout construction. except for the pockets. For the belt loops, I will use do a long strip of cover stitch- wide, and then cut them. Just like J Crew's. 


I'm ordering fabric for the 3rd pair of jeans, it could be called electric blue but emma calls it cobalt. by then I should have this pattern perfected to look like this. 


Now those are skinny jeans. Love em.





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